Reviewed October 1993
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Factory-applied weatherstripping on doors is only a recent innovation. As a result, the exterior doors in thousands of homes throughout the state possess little or no weatherstripping. Most doors are installed with a space between the bottom of the door and the floor or threshold. Sometimes this space can be 1/4 inch or more. If weatherstripping is not used, this crack allows large amounts of air to flow in and out of the house. This is known as infiltration.
On a typical 36-inch entry door, this small crack equals a 9-square-inch hole through a wall of your home. To put things in perspective, this is approximately equal in size to a standard duplex receptacle or the familiar switch plate.
One of the most effective and economical methods of weather stripping doors is pressure-sensitive vinyl foam tape. When purchasing, look for a closed-cell vinyl; it is a better insulator than its rival, the open cell, because the tape's pores are adjacent rather than connected to each other.
Pressure-sensitive sponge rubber is also available. However, due to its rather low compressibility, this material is not recommended for use as door weatherstripping. The vinyl foam tape has better insulating, compressibility and adhesive characteristics.
Most weatherstripping products are applied on the doorstop. The stop prevents the door from swinging through the upright sides of the door called the jamb.
When using any form of pressure-sensitive or stick-on weatherstripping, clean surfaces are a must. Any exterior door jamb is sure to have a film of dust which must be removed prior to application of the product. A cleansing rag dampened with fast drying lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol will take off this film.
Spring metal products have long been used to weather-strip doors and windows. However, these materials are harder to install and often not as effective as the closed-cell vinyl tape.
Three types of coiled tubing are most often used for weather-stripping. Installation is simple, requiring only a hammer, nails, and a pair of shears or tin snips. For doors, the tubing is pressed against the closed door and nailed to the face of the door stop. Other products similar to the tubing have pre-formed body made of white pine and are applied in the same manner.
Several types of door bottom weatherstripping are available. While easy to apply, these products can interfere with door swing and require a reasonably level threshold beneath the door. Simple hand tools are all that are required to install these door bottoms. After cutting it to size with a hacksaw or tin snips, the door bottom is surface mounted to the inside of the door using wood screws normally provided by the manufacturer.
A fairly new innovation in weatherstripping is the mechanically operated, "automatic" door bottom. In this model a vinyl seat is automatically lowered against the floor when the door is shut. The seal retracts when the door is opened.
Thresholds are a more attractive method of wind-proofing the bottom of a door. While most are very effective at cutting down infiltration, the average homeowner may find them difficult to install.
A popular threshold is an aluminum model with the flexible vinyl "bubble." When new, this threshold is effective, but under constant use the bubble soon collapses leaving a sizable crack beneath the door. In most cases the vinyl is replaceable provided a dealer selling that particular model can be located.
Though difficult to install, the combination vinyl door bottom and aluminum threshold is longwearing and provides effective weatherproofing. Since the vinyl is mounted in an aluminum extrusion fastened to the door, the aluminum threshold bears the brunt of wear. The only disadvantage in that interior frost may accumulate on the threshold during extremely cold weather.
For aesthetic reasons, many new homes today are being built with exposed single- or double-entry doors. While attractive, this practice must be questioned because of the heat loss or gain. By covering an exterior door with a storm door, conduction loss and infiltration through that door can easily be reduced by 50 percent.
Many people dislike the appearance of the traditional aluminum storm door. Manufacturers now offer a full-length glass storm door particularly designed for homes with exposed-entry doors. To be sure, these doors are potentially hazardous. However, Missouri law now requires tempered safety glazing in such doors, and attractive decals and appliqués can be attached at eye level to make sure the glass door is noticed.
Another large source of infiltration can be found around almost any overhead garage door. A 1/8-inch crack around the average single garage door yields almost 50 square inches of area -- enough to be concerned about, especially if the garage is attached to the house.
To begin winterizing a garage door, first purchase a "garage door bottom." Usually available in rubber or vinyl, the bottom is simply cut to measure and nailed to the bottom edge of the door with rust-resistant nails.
The final step should be the installation of an overhead garage door weatherstrip kit. One brand uses a vinyl leaf that fastens into an aluminum frame. Installation requires only a hammer and hacksaw and is accomplished by nailing the aluminum strip to the face of the door stop, allowing the vinyl leaf to "float" against the face of the garage door.
GH4881, reviewed October 1993