New February 1993
Use our feedback form for questions or comments about NCR463.
Contents
Publication search
Choosing carpeting for your home is no easy task. Carpeting is a major purchase and is often considered a long-term investment. Use the information in this guide to help you make a well-informed consumer decision.
Before shopping for carpet you should know what features are important for meeting your needs. Factors to consider are function, quality, cleanability, aesthetics, special needs and price. Your lifestyle and the way your space is used will help determine what fiber, style, texture and special features you look for.
One of the first things most people think about is color. Carpeting is now available in a wide variety of colors along with other features. Your selection of features should not be limited by your color preference, depending on the price range of the carpeting you select.
Special features important to your family depend on your use of the space and amount and type of traffic. Does your household includes pets? Will the carpet be exposed to sunlight or ozone pollution? Is electrical conductivity resulting in static and electric shock likely to be a major problem? Are members of the household allergic to certain fibers? How important is acoustical control and the insulation value of the carpet?
Consumer information about buying carpet may encourage you to think about each room individually. For example, advertising promotions point out that family room traffic is usually heavy, resulting in carpet wear and soil, but living room traffic is usually lighter resulting in lighter wear and soil. This type of advertising may lead you to believe that a different type, style and, perhaps, color is needed for different rooms. However, if you purchase a different style and color of carpet for each room, the overall result will be chaotic.
For a feeling of unity, think of the house, or at least each level of the house, as a whole. Use carpet as a backdrop for your color scheme. Your house will appear larger and more comfortable when there is continuity between rooms provided by consistent carpet.
The floor is the largest usable area of the house. It is also the least often changed. Consider how long you expect your new carpeting to last. Typically, carpet has a life expectancy of seven years, but many people replace carpet less frequently and expect it to last longer.
A neutral, medium-colored carpet shows less dirt than a darker or lighter color. Medium colors, color blends and patterns are best for disguising signs of use between cleanings. To keep your carpet looking soil-free longer, buy a color that matches the soil in your area.
Carpets with a plain overall effect permit a wider choice of furnishings. If the carpet color is neutral, furnishings and accessories can be used for color.
Always view your color choices in the space where you plan to use them, in both natural daylight and artificial light. Take large-sized carpet samples home and leave them on the floor for a day or two. Look at them with your furnishings and your lighting. The larger the sample, the easier it is to make a decision.
Also, remember that carpet nap causes the color to appear different when the carpet is viewed from different directions. If you have a preference for the direction of the nap, be sure to specify this to your installer.
If you have infants and young children who crawl on the floor, their knees, hands, shoes and clothes will come into contact with the carpet. Consider a carpet surface that will not irritate bare skin or wear out too quickly.
If you have a dog or cat, choose a carpet that will disguise dirt and can be easily cleaned. Loops catch on pet nails, both hurting the pet and damaging the carpet. Carpets with static electricity will attract pet hair.
Families with children should get carpet that can withstand heavy use. Family activities often result in spilled food, drinks and other sticky substances. Recreational activities, ranging from kicked soccer balls to parties, are also hard on carpets.
Carpet must be chosen carefully for use in a household with persons having mobility impairment. A person who shuffles when walking can build up a painful static electricity charge. An antistatic treatment is very important. For a person in a wheelchair, on crutches, or using a walker, the floor cover should be as smooth and compact as possible. The carpet should have low pile, no more than one-half inch high. Pile should be densely packed, level-loop pile for ease of movement. Glue-down installation is important to keep the carpet from shifting.
Carpet is not recommended for use in entryways, kitchens, bathrooms, porches or outdoors. In all of these areas, carpet can be easily soiled and moisture can be a serious problem.
Ice forms easily on outdoor carpet and makes walkways hazardous. It may also be subject to color fading and sun deterioration. All indoor/outdoor carpet is made from synthetic fibers treated to resist water, rot and mildew; some is chemically treated to resist sun damage. While indoor/outdoor carpet is usually stain-resistant, it may be difficult to remove lint, threads and spills.
The entryway is a transition area between outside and inside. Mud, snow, dirt, rain and outerwear are deposited in entryways. A smooth floor that can easily be cleaned and dried is a better choice than carpet.
Soils common to kitchens and bathrooms make carpet a poor choice (consider, for example, dropped eggs or flour on kitchen carpet or urine and medication on bathroom floors).
If kitchen carpeting is used, it should be made entirely of synthetic materials that are not subject to mildew, rot or melting. It should be a nonabsorbent, easy-to-clean fiber such as nylon, acrylic or olefin. Spots and spills must be removed quickly and completely to protect the floor from mildew and bacteria. Regular thorough maintenance is important.
Olefin is the easiest to clean, but has the disadvantage of being more heat-sensitive than nylon or acrylic. A hot pan dropped on an olefin carpet might cause the fibers to fuse and become shiny. A very heavy object dragged across an olefin carpet might also cause the fibers to fuse and become shiny.
The pile on kitchen carpet should be short and very dense to hold crumbs on top for easy cleaning. The backing should be dense foam to ensure resistance to mildew and rot.
A quality feature to look for is a layer of woven or solid plastic, called a moisture barrier, between the primary backing and the secondary backing to prevent moisture and spills from penetrating. No additional pad is needed.
Bathroom carpeting is not recommended. Moisture condenses in bathrooms and spills, including plumbing overflow, makes carpeting an impractical choice. If used, bathroom carpeting should be made from synthetic material and not permanently installed so it can be cleaned in a washing machine. You may need to use large-capacity machines at the laundromat.
The quality of carpeting is dependent on the type and grade of the fiber, the depth and density of the pile , the construction, and added characteristics.
Table 1 uses a comparison chart that gives additional information about specific fibers.
There are five main types of carpet pile fibers: nylon, olefin, polyester, wool and acrylic. Because each company producing these fibers has its own variants and trade names, use the generic name to determine the fiber content. Occasionally rugs and carpets may be made from cotton, jute, hemp or sisal, but these fibers are not usually found in wall-to-wall, consumer carpet.
Nylon
Nylon is the most common synthetic fiber used for consumer carpet. About 90 percent of all carpeting sold today is nylon. Advances in fiber chemistry have made enormous improvements in nylon over the last 30 years. In addition to stain-resistant properties, which are widely advertised, modern nylon has excellent abrasion, crushing and matting resistance, as well as reduced static electricity, pilling and fuzzing. It repels soil and cleans well, is nonallergenic and mold-, mildew- and moth-proof.
Fiber engineering changes are known as "generations," to distinguish one from another. Each generation represents an additional step in the fiber development. First-, second- and third-generation fibers are no longer available, except possibly at some discount carpet stores. You may, however, encounter carpet labeled fourth generation or higher.
In first and second generations, the fiber shape was changed and a delusterant added to eliminate sheen and create a wide variety of bright colors. In third-generation nylon a topical finish was added to reduce static electricity. Fourth generation added a fluorocarbon to improve soil-resistance.
With the fifth generation, stain-resistant resins were applied during or following the dyeing process. The fluorocarbon finish was retained, but it was sprayed onto the finished carpet as in the third generation.
These carpets are called Anso-V Worry-Free® (Allied), Zeftron Scotchgard Stainmaster® (BASF), Stainmaster® (DuPont), Wear-Dated Silver Label Stainblocker® (Monsanto). There are also a few generic mill labels.
The sixth generation, available from Monsanto as Wear-Dated Gold Label Stainblocker®, incorporates the stainblocker and soil resistor into the fibers at the time of manufacturing. Additional resin is applied on the carpet at the mill.
Four major nylon manufacturers produce these advanced-generation nylons and sell the fibers to carpet manufacturers. Advanced-generation nylon is sold under the following trade names:
Read labels carefully. Some "stain resistant" carpets are fourth- generation fibers with the fluorocarbon finish applied by the carpet mill. Remember, the key to stain removal is speed. While stain resistant treatments help, they may not be as effective as the manufacturers want you to believe.
Note
Any finishes added after fiber manufacturing are temporary. They will be removed during cleaning and must be replaced. Treatments added during fiber manufacturing are permanent and should be effective for the life of the carpet.
Note
Read the manufacturers' warranties carefully to determine
whether specific maintenance procedures are required.
Other major carpet fibers
Traditional Oriental rugs are made from sheep or lamb's wool. Modern Oriental-style rugs made from synthetic fibers do not have the life expectancy of the traditional wool rugs.
Table 1
Carpet fiber comparison
| Fiber | Advantages | Disadvantages |
|---|---|---|
| Nylon | Outstanding abrasion resistance | Degrades and fades in sunlight |
| Dyes easily; available in many colors | Stained by oil and grease | |
| Good stain resistance | ||
| Easy to clean (wet or dry) | ||
| Excellent resistance to matting | ||
| Extremely strong | ||
| Absorbs little moisture | ||
| Resistant to moths, mildew, and fungi | ||
| Excellent static control available | ||
| Available in a wide price range | ||
| Good flame and heat resistance | ||
| Olefin (polypropylene) | Easily cleaned (wet or dry) | Tends to mat depending on construction |
| Outstanding abrasion resistance | Susceptible to oil and grease stains | |
| Colorfast | Dry-cleaning solvents degrade fibers | |
| Soil and stain resistant | Shows "burn" marks from abrasion and wear | |
| Moisture, mildew, moth resistant | ||
| Static electricity resistant | ||
| Excellent wear in low pile | ||
| Does not absorb water | ||
| Excellent resistance to water-borne stains | ||
|
Genesis |
Heat set fibers | |
| Stain protector added to fiber | ||
| Minimum density required by manufacturer (to combat matting problems) | ||
| Polyester | Excellent color clarity | Susceptible to oil-based stains |
| Soft, luxurious "hand" (feel) | Sunlight weakens fibers | |
| Resists water-soluble stains | Less resilient than fibers | |
| Resistant to moths and mildew | Heat setting is important | |
| Stain resistant | Lacks "warmth" of other fibers | |
| Less expensive than nylon | Degrades and fades in sunlight | |
| Stained by oil and grease | ||
| Wool | Flame resistant | Expensive |
| Luxurious appearance | Causes allergic reactions | |
| Soft feel, high bulk | Imported | |
| Wide range of colors | Mothproofing required | |
| Crush resistant | Damaged by alkaline detergents | |
| Less easily cleaned than synthetics | ||
| Acrylic | Looks and feels like wool | Not as strong as other synthetics |
| Moisture and mildew resistant | Susceptible to oil-based stains | |
| Moth and insect resistant | Produced in short fibers and crimped | |
| Good stain resistance | Possible pilling problem | |
| Low moisture absorption | ||
| Cleans easily | ||
| Resists sunlight damage | ||
| Very good static control | ||
| Wide color choice available | ||
| Crush resistant |
Fibers are manufactured into yarns, which are used to construct the carpet pile. Several strands can be twisted together to form a ply. Yarns that are too soft or loosely twisted may develop a fuzzy and matted pile. Synthetic yarns may be made from long fiber strands, called filament yarns, or short, staple fibers. Natural fibers are always staple fibers.
Staple fibers are more prone to fuzzing and pilling than filament yarns. If synthetic fibers are combined with natural fibers, they are cut into staple lengths. Yarns made from staple synthetic fibers have pilling problems, although heat setting reduces this problem. Some non-staple yarns, called bulked continuous filament (BCF), have fullness added during the finishing process.
The twist of the yarn (Figure 1) affects the carpet's appearance, durability and resistance to matting.
Figure 1
Two types of carpet yarn twists.
If the yarn is tightly twisted and heat set, the carpet resists matting and is more durable than loosely twisted yarn. Generally, tightly twisted yarns are denser because twisting makes the diameter smaller, allows room for more yarns per inch, and gives a harsher feel and look.
Heat setting makes the yarn less likely to unravel. If the twist unravels, the carpet looses some of its ability to resist matting. Velvet should not be heat set so that it will remain soft.
The pile height and density also help determine the carpet quality.
Density in a tufted carpet is measured by the stitches or tufts per square inch and the gauge. The more tufts per square inch the denser the carpet. Gauge is the distance between the rows of tufts across the carpet width.
Pile height refers to the distance from the yarn top to the backing. The overall height is averaged when the carpet has multilevel construction. A lower pile height requires an increase in tufts-per-inch to maintain quality.
Face weight, yarn weight or average pile density is measured in ounces per square yard and refers to the amount of yarn in the carpet's surface pile. The heavier the face weight, the higher the quality. When comparing carpets, compare the carpet's face weight against other carpets from the same fiber classification. For example, compare one nylon carpet to another nylon, not to a wool or polyester carpet.
The old rule, "The deeper, the denser, the better," is still true, except for shag carpets and very short, loop pile. Shags are not tufted as densely because the yarns are supposed to lie on their sides. Long shags were hard to clean, did not wear well and have all but disappeared from the marketplace.
A carpet with a short, loop pile and tightly packed yarn will wear well, even if it does not have a deep pile.
Ninety-five percent of carpet constructed today is tufted (Figure 2). Other methods, such as needle-punched and bonded, are used for commercial carpet. Woven carpets tend to be very expensive and appeal mostly to the designer market. Needlepoint, rya and hooked rugs are often made by hand and are one-of-a-kind. They tend to be very expensive and limited to the designer accessory market. This guide will concentrate on helping you to select the best tufted carpet for home use.
Figure 2
Construction methods. Bonded (A.) and needle-punched (B.) methods are used to construct commercial grades of carpeting. Most consumer carpets are tufted (C.)
To make tufted carpet, hundreds of yarn-threaded needles are pushed through the primary backing fabric to form loops or tufts, which may be left as is or cut. A heavy adhesive coating is applied to hold the tufts in place and a secondary backing is usually glued on for strength and stability.
Other construction methods:
Texture or style is the surface appearance of the carpet, created by the type of loop, size and twist of the yarns (Figure 3). Selection is determined by personal taste, furnishings and lifestyle.
Figure 3
The type of loop, and size and twist of the yarns create the surface texture of carpeting.
Loop pile
Level loop pile in consumer carpet is more commonly found in basements and kitchens, as well as some Berber carpets.
Multilevel loop pile has loops of different heights, creating a sculptured surface. This texture hides soiling better than level loop pile, but is not as durable.
Berber carpets look like and are named after a handmade, bulky wool carpet made by the Berber tribes of North Africa. The loops are made from thick or bulky yarns of wool, nylon, olefin or a blend of these fibers. These carpets are available in an assortment of colors and can be either level loop or multilevel loop.
Cut pile
Plush or velvet textures all have a level surface less than one inch and are made of yarns with very little twist. The yarn ends blend together, producing a smooth surface. Velvet plush has a shorter pile height than plush. These carpets tend to "shade" with heavy use. Footprints show easily and the color looks different from place to place because fibers lying in different directions reflect the light differently. Velvet and plush carpets should not be heat set so they will remain soft.
Saxony textures are made of twisted yarns, which should be heat set. The tips remain very distinct, rather than blending together. Saxony textures also shade and show footprints.
Frieze (pronounced free-say) carpets are similar to saxony, but the yarns are more tightly twisted and should always be heat set. They have a dense, low pile surface which creates a coarse, pebbly texture. Frieze carpets are very durable and hide footprints, dust and dirt, which makes them suitable for heavy traffic areas.
Combinations
Combinations of cut and uncut loops create interesting textures. Tip-sheared carpet has a level surface with cut and uncut loops the same height. This creates a more luxurious effect than level loop carpet, but it doesn't hide footprints as well.
Random sheared carpet is made by cutting off the tops of the highest loops and creating a random texture.
Once very popular, shag, carved and sculptured designs are not often used today. Shag is made from lower density, long pile yarns of cut and uncut loops. Carved and sculptured designs are achieved through cutting away part of the face yarns, creating definite, textured patterns.
Carpet backing usually consists of two layers, a primary backing which holds the tufts in place, and a secondary backing which is glued to the primary backing for stability (Figure 4). Primary backings are made from polypropylene (olefin) or jute. More than 90 percent of carpet backings are made of polypropylene. Polypropylene backing is strong, durable and resistant to mildew. Jute is a natural material that is strong, durable and resilient, but may mildew in damp conditions. Sometimes the manufacturer colors the primary backing to match the yarns for a denser appearance.
Figure 4
Carpet backing.
The secondary backing may be made from polypropylene, jute, sponge rubber, urethane or foam. Polypropylene (olefin) provides an excellent backing because it is unaffected by moisture, resists mildew and is strong and durable. On some carpets, such as kitchen carpets, the padding is attached to the carpet back. Some of these padding fibers are the same materials used to make separate carpet pads.
Carpet manufacturers now produce high quality backings under trade names such as ActionBac® and FlexBac®.
Chemical treatments that affect carpet maintenance and consumer health and safety can be added to the carpet fiber, yarn or carpet surface either during manufacturing or afterwards. Some treatments, such as flame retardants, are federally regulated. Others are optional and their importance depends on the consumer's needs and lifestyle.
The point at which the treatment is added makes a difference in how effective it will be and how long it will last. Topical treatments are short-lived and are removed by some cleaning processes. Some treatments can be reapplied with varying degrees of effectiveness. A topical treatment applied by the retailer may increase soiling rather than prevent it, and it may invalidate the manufacturer's warrantee.
Additional carpet specifications may be available in materials that the retailer either has or can obtain from the manufacturer. You can request that your retailer get these specifications from the manufacturer before you decide to purchase the carpet, or you can use the toll-free number provided for most manufacturers to ask specific questions yourself.
Following are some of the more common special features available.
Flammability
The Department of Commerce establishes regulations designed to protect consumers from small ignition fire sources (matches, cigars, cigarettes, stove or fireplace embers). Consumer carpet must meet these standards, but no carpet is flame-proof, only flame retardant.
Acoustics
Carpeting can improve the acoustical quality of interior space. Tests conducted by the Carpet and Rug Institute showed the following conclusions:
Static electricity
Static electricity can be an annoying problem with carpeting, especially in winter when the interior humidity is low. People gain an electric charge when walking over carpet; this charge is then discharged to the next thing that is touched, especially metal. Static electricity is an acute problem, especially when people shuffle and in spaces where computers or other sensitive electronic equipment is housed.
No carpet is completely static-free. Nylon, polyester and wool seem to generate more static electricity than acrylic or olefin.
Many methods are used to control carpet static. Some carpets are made with built-in static inhibitors -- metallic threads woven into the material to continuously drain the charge. Others use specific blends and engineered fibers. These methods generally provide permanent control. Another method is to use special coatings on the fibers.
Any antistatic treatment that coats the fibers will rub off on shoes and result in increased soiling. Surface applications are also usually removed by cleaning. Also, note that using an antistatic spray that is not specifically approved by the manufacturer may invalidate the warranty on the carpet.
Some carpeting has a full-lifetime antistatic warrantee. This information will be printed on the label.
Anti-microbial
Studies show that carpet has a tendency to serve as a dust trap and at the same time lowers the rate of airborne dust and bacteria. As a result, carpet use in hospitals and nursing homes increased during the last 20 years. Finishes may be applied to control the spread of disease or infection, and to control odors and reduce mildew. This is generally not a major concern with consumer carpeting.
Moth-proofing
Most wool and wool-blend carpets are permanently moth-proofed by the manufacturer. This information appears on the label. Carpets containing wool that are not permanently moth-proofed must be kept clean.
Synthetic fibers are not subject to moth damage.
Soil or stain resistance
Fluorochemical treatments, such as Teflon®, Scotchgard® and Fiber Shield®, protect against both water- and oil-based stains.
Silicone treatments, among them Fabri-Coate® and Total Seal®, protect against water-based stains. Both protect against dry soiling. Factory-applied finishes are usually more durable and cost less than those applied by the retailer. Treatments added during fiber manufacturing are more permanent than treatments applied to the yarn or carpet surface.
Retailer-applied finishes can be reapplied after cleaning. Read labels carefully. Home- or retailer-applied finishes may invalidate the fiber or carpet warranty.
Note
"Manufacturer applied" or "factory applied" does not mean the treatment is manufactured into the fiber. These may be finishes added to the yarn or carpet before shipping to the retailer.
Texture retention
Texture retention is the ability of carpet tufts to retain their visible shape, as measured by the degree of bursting, opening or untwisting of the tufts at the carpet surface.
Sunlight and colorfastness
Color can be added to carpet at different times in the manufacturing process. The best time for adding color to synthetic fibers is while the fiber is being made. This process, called solution-dying, (Figure 5) produces the most permanent colors.
Figure 5
A carpet made from solution-dyed yarns will fade less from exposure to sunlight. Fading will be less obvious on a neutral-colored carpet.
Color can also be added to finished fibers, to the yarn or to the finished carpet.
Color is subject to four general types of fading: sunlight; ozone (atmospheric); wet cleaning; and abrasion (crocking).
Carpet used in any sun-lighted area fades less if solution-dyed. Neutral colors show the least fading, but darker colors absorb more heat. Ozone and humidity can also affect color fading. In areas where these are intense, it is especially important to use solution-dyed fibers.
Insulation value
Pile density and padding are the important factors affecting insulation value. Wall-to-wall carpeting, constructed with a deep, dense pile and having a thick, densely air-pocketed urethane padding, insulates best. Carpeting can reduce heat loss through the floor. Savings may be noticeable in extreme climates, especially if carpet is installed on an uninsulated floor or over a crawl space or concrete slab.
Carpets should not be used in a sunlit space intended for passive solar collection. Research shows even the thinnest of carpets will impede solar collection in the floor heat sink.
Good padding protects your carpet, makes it last longer and makes it feel better. It also acts as a shock absorber and protects carpet from the wear and tear of heavy traffic. Do not use old carpet or padding under your new carpet. These will be worn in some areas more than in others and will not provide the support your new carpet needs.
Quality padding is available in sponge rubber, foam rubber, urethane foam, bonded urethane or a felted combination of hair and jute. These are made in various densities, thicknesses and weights to meet light, medium and heavy traffic conditions. An extremely soft padding may produce leg fatigue or uncertain footing for the very young or the elderly. It also is difficult to push a wheelchair across a thick carpet and soft pad.
To test whether the padding feels firm, but not so thick that it will cause walking or vacuuming problems, place a sample of the carpet and pad on the floor and walk over it.
Padding should be installed in the largest possible lengths with a minimum number of sections. It should be placed flush with the edges of the tackless strips and installed with the scrim side facing upward. A slight stretch is required to flatten the wrinkles.
Padding seams should not be placed directly under carpet seams. Sponge or foam seams should be taped with four-inch wide, non-paper tape.
You are responsible for checking the total height of the carpet pile and pad to be sure that there is enough clearance for any doors that open over the carpet. If there is not, you may wish to alter your carpet or pad selection, or you may wish to have the lower edge of the door planed to provide clearance. Carpet installers usually do not do this.
Don't worry about doing an exact measurement yourself. A rough estimate of your room's dimensions will be enough to give you an idea of how much the carpet will cost.
Carpet almost always has to be cut and pieced, and it all needs to run in the same direction. Professionals know how to allow for piecing, and what to do with doorways, closets, built-in shelves and heavy-traffic areas. So, let them do the final measuring.
To get a rough estimate, measure (in inches) the length and width of the room at the widest place. Add three inches to each measurement. Divide by 12 (to get feet) and round up to the nearest even foot. Carpeting comes in 12-foot widths, which can run across the length or width of your room. If your room is wider than 12 feet in both directions, the carpet will have to be pieced. If one direction is less than 12 feet, the carpet width will fill the room wall to wall and you will need as many feet as the room length.
For example, if your room is 10 feet wide by 14 feet long, you will need to buy 14 running feet of 12 foot wide carpet. Multiply 12 x 14 to get 164 square feet and divide by 9 to get 18 square yards. This is approximately the amount you will buy.
If your room is 14 x 16 feet, however, you will have to buy two pieces of 12-foot-wide carpet. Place the carpet widths across the widest direction (the 16-foot side) making both pieces 14 feet long. While they will be placed side-by-side, the seam does not necessarily have to go down the center (Figure 6).
Your two 12 x 14 foot pieces come to 24 x 14 feet, which multiplies to 140 + 28 = 336 square feet. Divide by 9 and round up to get 38 square yards.
Figure 6
Estimating carpet needs and costs.
Carpet for steps
Steps have risers and treads. The tread is where you put your foot. The riser goes up and down between the steps. Measure one tread and multiply by the number of treads. Do the same for the number of risers. Add these together to get the total number of inches needed for the stair length (Figure 7).
Figure 7
Estimating carpet for stairs. When measuring stairs for carpeting,
don't forget to include the "nosing." This curved edge of each step should be
included in your measurement of the "rise."
Many people choose to add enough for one additional riser or tread so that the carpet can be shifted when it begins to show wear. Divide your number by 36 to get the number of running yards. Remember to measure the stair width because not all stairs are the same width. Steps may be covered separately or with one long carpet piece. In our example, the leftover width from the 14 x 16 room should be enough to cover the stairs in one piece; there may not be a large enough leftover piece from the 10 x 14 foot room.
When you go to the store, take all your measurements with you. Show the store personnel your figures, and they may be able to help you get a closer approximation.
Cost
Total carpet cost includes the carpet, padding, installation charges and interest charges if you use credit. The installation charges are usually the same regardless of carpet cost.
Cost is not usually a good estimator of quality. Any wool carpet, for example, will cost more than a nylon carpet. However, poor quality wool will not wear or retain its appearance as well as good quality nylon. Beware of carpet outlet retailers who promise lower prices. They may deliver lower quality as well. Always buy the best quality carpet you can afford.
Labels
The carpeting delivered to your home will not be labeled, however, the sample you use in selecting it will be. The Textile Fiber Products Identification Act of 1960 requires that the following information be given about the carpet pile (not the back or backing):
In addition, such things as whether the fiber has been heat set, special finishes, backing(s) and manufacturer's warranty or guarantee information may also be on the label.
Warranties
Be sure to read all the small print on the warranty or guarantee. Be especially aware that there is a difference between the warranty for the fiber and the warranty for the carpet. For example, a "Wear Dated®" warranty refers to the fiber, not the carpet.
It will be little comfort to you if the warrantee from the fiber manufacturer states that the fiber will not stain or wear for 10 years, but you discover the yarns were too far apart and your carpet is unsightly because of crushing and matting. Unless you also have a warranty from the carpet manufacturer, you are out of luck.
Also read very carefully anything in the instructions about carpet care, cleaning and stain removal. Many carpets are treated to give them special characteristics, such as stain resistance. Certain care procedures may remove or damage these treatments and invalidate the warranty.
If you have any question about whether a certain cleaning product or procedure is acceptable, call the manufacturer and ask for verification in writing that the procedure is allowable. If a problem develops later, you will be covered.
Be sure that all label information is written on the invoice and on any sales contract. The label helps provide care information for the carpeting. Other information on the label may prove useful later, so be sure to obtain or make a copy of the entire label.
There are two installation methods for carpet: "stretch-in," which uses tackless strips (Figure 8), and "glue-down."
Figure 8
Tackless strip installation.
Tackless strip installations must be carefully done by competent installers. If the carpet has not been properly stretched, it will soon sag. In most carpet installations there will be one or more seams. Most installers use hot-melt seam tapes (Figure 9), which come in a variety of widths.
Figure 9
Seams are held securely in place with hot-melt seam tapes.
Sometimes the carpet retailer is also the installer. However, often the retailer subcontracts to or recommends a variety of installation firms. The retailer may not guarantee the work of the installer. It will be worth your time to check the reputation and references of the carpet installer and to carefully discuss your installation job with them. Be sure you know what is included in the quoted price. Does the installer remove the old carpet? Do they remove it from the premises? Who is responsible for floor preparation? What happens if there is a problem with the carpet when it is delivered? Are you charged for time by your installer anyway?
Discuss with the installer what installation method they intend to use and where the padding and carpet seams will be placed.
Ideally, carpet should be allowed to breathe before installation. However, for practical reasons this is seldom done. You may wish to check with your installer about whether allowing a breathing time is possible.
Never install carpet over carpet. Before the new carpet is installed, the floor should be cleared of furniture and any old carpet and padding should be removed. The buyer and installer should agree in advance on who will remove the old carpet and pad and move any furniture. Ask whether there is a charge if the installer performs this service. Determine what, if any, additional charge is involved.
The surface must be clean, level and sound. In most cases, a carpet can be installed over existing sheet or tile flooring. Do not attempt to remove or treat this type of flooring in any way before discussing it with the installer and/or carpet retailer. Guidelines continually change and new products become available that seal old surfaces and ensure compatibility with adhesives being used.
Prior to installation, open doors and windows, turn on central heat/air conditioning fan at maximum speed, or use floor fans to bring fresh air into the home. If possible keep the windows open, and keep the ventilation system running for 48 to 72 hours after installation.
Before the installers put the carpet into place, inspect it. Check that it is the carpet pattern and color you selected and that it is free of defects.
Carpet may be installed by securing it with "tackless strips" (Figure 8) or by gluing it directly to the floor. Tackless strips are plywood strips containing two or three rows of pins. These are installed around the edges of the area, and are nailed or glued to the floor.
The carpet is stretched over the strips so the pins penetrate the secondary backing and hold it securely. The carpet should be power-stretched in all directions to assure a sufficient and uniform stretch and prevent buckling. Most residential carpet uses a padding and is not glued down.
Find out if the installer will use metal threshold strips and if there will be an additional cost for them.
All seams should be sealed by applying a bead of latex seam sealer to the cut edges. The seam sealer will lock in the rows of tufts along the edge of the seam where the carpet has been cut. This helps prevent the loss of tufts at the seams. Seam sealing will also keep the primary backing from raveling, which may be a problem, especially with olefin fiber backings.
Most carpet must be seamed in one or more places. For best results, installers should use hot- melt tape to secure seams (Figure 9). This tape comes in a variety of widths. Tape at least four inches wide is recommended for most carpet. Berber carpet should be installed with six inch tape.
Seams should be placed close to a wall or where furniture will cover them, and not in areas of heavy traffic. Often it is necessary to place a carpet seam in a doorway. When this situation occurs, the carpet should be allowed to project into the doorway so that the seam is hidden under the door when the door is closed.
Find out where your installer plans to put the seams before closing the deal. You may wish to buy extra carpet or discuss arrangements to locate seams where you want them.
You may wish to have a double thickness of carpet installed under one of the risers to enable you to shift the stair carpet after a period of use. This will disguise the wear caused by the carpet opening up (or "grinning") where it is wrapped around the nose of the stairs (Figure 7).
Agree in advance about whether excess carpet, called "attic stock," belongs to you or to the retailer or the installer. Leftover carpet pieces can be used for doormats or saved for replacement of worn or stained areas.
These checklists are provided for your convenience. Make several photocopies of the forms and take them with you as you comparison shop.
Shopping checklist
Determine which characteristics are important to you
and be sure to check each carpet sample for those characteristics.
| Checklist for carpet installation | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1. Will the installer remove old carpet and pad? | Yes | No |
| How much will it cost? | ||
| 2. Will the installer prepare the floor? | Yes | No |
| How much will it cost? | ||
| 3. Which installation method will be used? | Tackless | Glue-down |
| 4. Where will the installer place seams? | ||
| 5. Will the installer use metal threshold strips? | Yes | No |
| How much will they cost? | ||
| 6. What width of hot-melt tape will the installer use? | ||
| 7. Who owns carpet leftovers? | ||
| Company name: Carpet sample name: |
||
Checklist for final purchase
It is important to keep records
of your carpet's "life." This will
help you if you have questions or need assistance in the future.
You may wish to attach sales receipts, a copy of the carpet sample label, and all warrantee information to this checklist. Be sure also to keep proof of professional cleaning and a record of home cleaning. Be sure you have the following information.
| Carpet dealer |
| Salesperson: |
| Date of purchase: |
| Address: |
| Phone number: |
| Installer |
| Phone number: |
| Address: |
| Date of installation: |
| Installation method: |
| Location of seams: |
| Carpet manufacturer |
| Phone number: |
| Color name and number: |
| Style name and number: |
| Square yardage: |
| Fiber producer |
| Phone number: |
| Type of fiber: |
| Special characteristics: |
| If applicable: |
| Padding manufacturer |
| Phone number: |
| Type of padding: |
| Seam adhesive manufacturer |
| Phone number: |
| Type of seam adhesive: |
| Floor adhesive manufacturer |
| Phone number: |
| Type of adhesive: |
| Other information: |
Resources
Publications
Other extension resources
NCR463, new February 1993